An Onsen on the Big Island of Hawaii : Ahalanui Hot Springs

Since the Big Island of Hawaii is an active volcano, we were surprised at the lack of natural hot springs, like the many popular onsens in Japan. Ahalanui Park, on the east side of the Big Island in Puna, is one exception. This Hawaii County park has a huge naturally heated pond within a manmade wall, refreshed with ocean water.

The water can get up to 90 degrees from the heat generated by the Volcano. Fresh ocean water helps keeps the water in the pond clean and the fish swimming underfoot makes it fun to snorkel. The bottom of the pond is sand and mud making the water often murky. The feeling of soaking in the warm water with the rush of the ocean nearby is wonderful and fun. All the visitors we have taken to the pond have enjoyed it immensely and were reluctant to leave.

The park is free, open daily from 7AM-7PM, and has ample parking. The protective wall and life guards help make the pond safe for children and non-swimmers. Don’t try swimming in the ocean on the other side of the wall though, it is ferocious.

Staircases help make the hot springs pond more accessible. A caution: the warm water can harbor bacteria, so don’t swim with open wounds or if your immunity is low.

The park has portable toilets, picnic tables, BBQ grills, and shaded areas to relax and enjoy the view of the Pacific Ocean.

Ahalanui Park was opened by the County of Hawaii in 1993 and is visited by a mix of tourists and locals. The Puna district is the size of Oahu and still very remote. Many of the roads in Puna have been destroyed by lava flows, limiting access to much of the Puna area to only one two-lane road, Highway 130.

If you want to stay in the Puna district, search on-line for a B&B, Inn or vacation rental. The closest rentals near Ahalanui Park are in a residential area surrounding Kapoho Bay, about 2 miles down Hwy 137/Kapoho Kalapana Road. The nearest town is Pahoa, about 15 miles north from Ahalanui Park and about 20 miles south from Hilo Airport (ITO). Driving times are often extended by crowded and narrow roads. A drive from Pahoa to Ahalanui Park recently took us over 35 minutes.





Directions to Ahalanui Park:
On the Big Island of Hawaii: From Highway 11, take Highway 130 south through Pahoa. The road changes name to Hwy 132/Kapoho Road. When it dead ends at Highway 137, turn right on Kapoho Kalapana Road. The Park is located on the left, just past Mile Marker #10 where the road narrows. There are several other beaches along Hwy 137, but beware, the strong currents and huge waves have drowned many a strong swimmer and seasoned local. Ahalanui Park is one of the few places where you can admire the fury of the Pacific Ocean while being protected by a man-made rock wall.